Next time you spot an H&M ad, take a closer look to see if it features an AI-generated model.

The clothing giant has revealed that it will start using AI to generate digital replicas of 30 of its models for use in ads and social media posts — provided they give their permission, that is.

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The idea of creating digital replicas is a controversial one in not only the modeling industry but also in the wider creative sector, with many actors, photographers, and make-up artists, among others, fearing a loss of work.

For its own endeavor, H&M has insisted the models will retain rights over their digital copies, giving them a say over how the retailer uses them for marketing, Business of Fashion reported.

The clothing company also said that the models will be paid for the use of their AI-generated replicas, apparently similar to in-person rates, though ultimately it will be for a model’s agent to negotiate an agreed rate.

“We are curious to explore how to showcase our fashion in new creative ways — and embrace the benefits of new technology — while staying true to our commitment to personal style,” H&M chief creative officer Jörgen Andersson said in comments reported by the BBC.

H&M will likely use the digital copies first in social media posts, with a watermark included to indicate that AI was used to generate the models. Such labeling ensures that H&M falls in line with rules laid out by platforms such as Instagram and TikTok, which demand that AI-created content be labeled as such.

Generative AI has come on leaps and bounds in the last couple of years, with powerful computer tools able to create convincing doubles of real people, or imagined people created from just a few keywords.

Not surprisingly, the technology’s ease of use appeals to executives and producers in the creative industries, as well as brand creative teams.

But concerns surrounding the issue include ensuring fair compensation for the use of digital twins, whether equitable rates will persist in the future, and whether new talent will still have the same opportunities to break into the industry.

Many will recall the disruption caused by the Hollywood strikes in 2023 when actors and writers stopped working over a range of issues, including over how movie studios might use AI to write scripts, and the use of digital doubles in future productions. Unions managed to carve out notable concessions and limitations designed to protect show business creatives, though negotiations are still ongoing on some issues.

As AI tools continue to improve, don’t be surprised if we see more disputes across the creative sector as executives tussle with creators over the use of this fast-developing technology.

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